Capital crossings: A Closer Look at 10 of Bangkok's Historic Bridges
Boranbureerom
Damrong
While Bangkok’s network of canals once served as the capital’s principal transport links for commuters and traders, by the late 1800s, roads began growing in importance as influences from Europe began to make an impact in Siam.
Early roads required bridges to cross the capital’s canals, so during the reigns of King Rama V and King Rama VI, more than a hundred structures, including steel and reinforced concrete components, were built throughout Bangkok.
Over time many of these bridges disappeared as klongs (‘canals’) were filled in and roads took their place. Nevertheless, the capital still boasts many interesting bridges, such as 10 we will examine in greater detail in this article, which feature a number of interesting historical anecdotes.
Phanpipob Leela Bridge
Phanpipob Leela Bridge is a small bridge that crosses Klong Lord and connects Sanam Luang to the Royal Hotel. It provides connectivity between the inner and mid sections of Ratchadamnoen Avenue.
When first built, during the reign of King Chulalongkorn the Great (1868-1910), the bridge featured a steel arched superstructure. This structure was completely replaced by a new bridge in 1904, which features beautiful wrought iron rails. The bridge was moved to its current location when Pinklao Bridge was built over the Chao Phraya River 36 years ago.
The bridge has been given a new look over recent years, while the structure has also been further developed on order to better accommodate increasing levels of traffic.
Phanfah Leelas Bridge
This major bridge crosses Klong Banglampoo, connecting the inner and outer stretches of Ratchadamnoen Avenue.
The bridge provides a link to several leading attractions, such as the King Prajadhipok Museum, the temple of Wat Rachanadda and the Queen's Gallery.
Due to the development of the capital's network of roads, the width of this beautiful bridge has been expanded on several occasions. Despite this fact, much of the structure's original grace and splendor remains intact.
On the bridge's four corners are marble pillars, featuring elaborate designs and details. The mid section of each pillar features scale models of European warships cast in bronze. The cast iron rails feature a delicate sunflower motif.
Makawarn Rungsun Bridge
Following the issue of a Royal decree by King Chulalongkorn the Great (Rama V) in 1900, the outer part of Ratchadamnoen Avenue was established to link the area around Phanfar Bridge to the Dusit Royal Garden. This was to follow the standard of all the grand avenues of Europe at that time, featuring wide thoroughfares lined with tall, stately-looking trees and pedestrian promenades.
An order for the building of the bridge was issued, which was to be established where the avenue crossed Klong Phadung Krung Kasem. The bridge was to meet with the general grand design and character of the avenue. This order was carried out successfully and the resulting bridge is Makawan Rungsun Bridge, which is widely considered to be the capital's most beautiful bridge (see main photo accompanying this article.
The bridge represents a combination of a steel structure and concrete slabs. Its wrought iron rails are extremely ornate, and this is accentuated when they are viewed from the canal.
The stately, well-proportioned pillars and gracefully curved marble base slabs add a dignified, imposing touch to the overall composition of the structure.
The man responsible for the design of the bridge was Italian Carlo Allegri, who served at the time as chief engineer at the ministry of public works.
Its artistic value is comparable with any major bridge in Europe during that period. The bridge is located in front of the offices of the United Nations.
Damrong Stitya Bridge
Charoen Krung Road (also known as 'New Road') was built in the early 1860s, during the reign of King Rama IV (1851-1868). At the point where the road crosses Klong Ong Arng, there was originally a drawbridge, which featured a steel substructure and wooden planks.
The bridge was named after Prince Damrongrajanuparp, King Chulalongkorn the Great's half brother, whose home was located nearby. At one time the bridge was expanded to such an extent that a portion of the prince's home had to be knocked down. Indeed, throughout the century, the bridge had to undergo reconstruction work on several occasions.
The bridge is now rather plainer and is predominantly made from concrete. Although it now features cement balustrades, the bridge is still referred to as Saphan Lek Bon, or the 'upper steel bridge'.
Charoen Krung Road was the first road to be built in the kingdom using western construction techniques, hence its other name (New Road). It runs parallel to the Chao Praya River, along the eastern bank, and leads to Bangrak, Sathorn and then eventually Bangkorlaem.
Pityasatira
Phityasatira Bridge
Further down New Road near Si Phya, where the road crosses Klong Phadung Krung Kasem, there once stood a steel-based turnbridge called Saphan Lek Lang ('lower steel bridge'), which formed a pair with Damrong Stitya Bridge ('upper steel bridge'), as noted previously.
In the late 1890s, the bridge was replaced with a wider one, which was in use right up until the current concrete-based replacement was built during the reign of King Rama VI (1910-1925).
The present bridge – known as Phityasatira Bridge - belongs to the Venetian style, featuring three supporting arches.
Probably the most prominent features are the bridge's four lamp posts, which are of an exceptional artistic design, demonstrating a fine example of a successful blend of Thai and European artistic influences.
Chamai
Chamaimaruchet Bridge
Chamaimaruchet Bridge is located where Phitsanulok Road crosses Klong Premprachakorn at the northeastern corner of Government House.
The original bridge was built using funds provided by Her Serene Highness (HSH) Princess Valaialongkorn, King Chulalongkorn's daughter. The funds were donated when the princess reached the age her two brothers – HSH Prince Maha Vachirunahit and HSH Prince Sridhamaraj Damrongrit - had reached on passing away. Due to this fact, King Chulalongkorn named the bridge Chamaimaruchet, or literally 'Same age as the brothers' bridge.
The bridge has since been modified beyond recognition; only the commemorative plaques at midspan remain to tell visitors more specific details about its history.
Charoen Sri 34 Bridge
King Rama VI chose to follow his father's tradition of building bridges from his personal funds to commemorate each birthday anniversary.
To celebrate his birthday from the age of 31 through 36, the monarch decided to build a bridge for each year, with each bridge's name beginning with Charoen, meaning 'to prosper'. The first bridge in this series was Charoen Ruch 31, to celebrate the monarch's 31st birthday, while the final one was called Charoen Sawasdi 36 (it should be noted that the monarch in fact lived until he was 44). The first bridge in this series was completed in 1911.
Charoen Sri 34 Bridge was built over Klong Lord in front of the temple of Wat Buranasiri Matayaram, about 200 m away from the Phanpipob Leela Bridge. Built to commemorate the monarch's 34th birthday, like many other bridges built during his reign, this bridge is a reinforced concrete structure.
The bridge's decorative features were particularly well conceived and executed. The team of engineers and construction workers responsible for building this structure were the very same group who had built bridges during the reign of King Rama V.
The bridges King Chulalongkorn the Great had built to celebrate his birthday covered a 17-year period. Using the word Chalerm, meaning 'to commemorate', construction on the first bridge – Chalerm Sri 42 – began in 1894 to celebrate the king's 42nd birthday anniversary. The bridge was completed in 1895.
The series came to an end with Chalerm Sawan 58, which was actually completed two years after the monarch had passed away.
Most of the bridges in this series were of a steel structure and were designed and constructed by European engineers who came to work for the kingdom. Unfortunately, most of these bridges were later removed to make way for new roads as the city's canals were filled in.
Mahadthai
Mon Bridge
About 500 m away from Charoen Sri 34 Bridge, Mon Bridge connects New Road with the inner part of Bangkok's Rattanakosin Island. Saranrom Palace lies at the foot of where the bridge is located.
The name of the bridge was derived from a sizable Mon community, which had settled since the reign of King Rama III (1824-1851). The bridge is flanked by Klong Lord, New Road and Wat Rajabhorpit.
Originally, the Mon community built a sturdy wooden bridge across Klong Lord. However, this bridge was taken down and replaced during the reign of King Rama VI with a simple concrete bridge which features very interesting Art Nouveau-style iron railings.
Saowanee Bridge
Located on Sri Ayuthaya Road, Saowanee Bridge crosses a small canal and the route of the northern railway line.
In 1911, Queen Sri Patcharindra, the Queen Mother of HM King Rama VI and HM King Rama VII, commissioned a bridge to be built to commemorate her 48th birthday. The reinforced concrete structure was given the name Saowanee, which literally means 'on the Queen’s Command'. You will see at the site of the bridge decorative stucco displays featuring the face of the Queen.
Mahadthai Uthit Bridge
Mahadthai Uthit Bridge is located close to Phanfah Leelas Bridge, which leads to the Golden Mount.
Popularly known as 'the Weeping Bridge', Mahadthai Uthit Bridge is described as being the bridge built in remembrance of King Chulalongkorn the Great, following his passing.
The most outstanding features here, though, are the artistic bas-reliefs, depicting weeping pairs of mother and child, along with some particularly beautiful rails.
The bridge was built from donations provided by civil servants who worked in the ministry of the interior (Krasuang Mahadthai), which is what led to the naming of the bridge.
Makawan
Panfah
Phanpipob
Saowanee
For reference: Aspects of this article have been sourced from two publications, namely Old Bridges of Bangkok by Sirichai Narumit and Ancient Canals and Important Bridges in Rattanakosin Island by Panutas. The black and white photographs accompanying this article were sourced from Old Bridges of Bangkok with the kind permission of the book's publisher – the Siam Society.
Credit: TAN Network (www.tannetwork.tv)
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