Off-Peak Pai Makes Perfect Sense
Staff Writer
Pai is a small town based in Pai district in the northern province of Mae Hong Son. Up until about 10 years ago, only a handful of intrepid travelers made the journey along the windy route (Route 1095) up to the lofty locale in order to experience its wonderfully peaceful ambiance.
But, more recently, Pai has undergone numerous changes, the most remarkable being its emergence as a major tourist destination. In fact, just a few years ago during the cool season (November-February), the town got so crowded with domestic and foreign visitors during the New Year period that the community completely ran out of petrol!
Seal a Deal
So I guess you're wondering whether it only makes sense to visit Pai during the cool season, right? Well, the answer to that question is, “not really”, since the area is wonderfully green and lush during the tail end of the rainy season (that means now!), which provides visitors with some particularly stunning vistas of the swathes of rain forest located nearby.
Although it might be a good deal quieter than during the peak season, you certainly won't be short of fellow travelers, though, since many foreigners also choose to pay a visit to Pai during this time of year. The upside is that accommodation costs in the area can be up to 50% cheaper, making a rainy season visit a particularly affordable alternative.
Pedal Power
During our sojourn in Pai, we opted to rent some bicycles to explore the town, heading first for the temple of Wat Sri Don Chai. This was the town's first temple and is situated just a short distance from the center of town in Wiang Nua sub-district. According to historical records, the temple was built in 1312 by Paga Mong Sor, who led a group of Burmese troops to settle in the area. It was previously known as Wat Ban Jong Mai (or 'Wat Mai' for short) and the name Wat Sri Don Chai was derived from a combination of native words relating to its location on high ground and the name Lord Sri Chaiya, who was the ruler of Pai during that time.
The ancient temple of Wat Klang, located near the town's bus station, is another temple we would recommend you visit if you take a trip to Pai. Inside, you'll find its remarkable Thai Yai (Shan)-style golden pagoda. Enshrined within the vihara ('monastery') is a reclining Buddha image, which was carved from a tree trunk, some beautifully carved wooden images of the Lord Buddha's disciples, along with figures representing angels and demons.
About two kilometers out of town among the mountains to the east is the temple of Wat Phra Thart Mae Yen, which is also well worth a visit. Although it's not very far from the town, it's a bit trickier to reach by bicycle as the paths are pretty steep. With a bit of extra effort, however, it's not impossible to reach the temple using pedal power and it's worth the additional effort to enjoy the incredible view of the town and the mountainous terrain surrounding it.
Curiosities Abound
It's not only the nature and local culture that draw folks to Pai, though, since it also has its fair share of chic souvenir stores, coffee shops and other retail outlets. You'll probably stumble across a coffee shop in most parts of town, while most of the souvenirs stores - selling bags, key chains, postcards, T-shirts and the like - are located along Chai Songkram Road. This road becomes a 'Walking Street' during the evening, attracting villagers and members of local hill tribes, too, who sell their souvenirs and knickknacks straight off the sidewalk. It's also a popular entertainment hotspot at night as the area includes lots of bars and restaurants.
In addition to the Walking Street, the Pai Tourism Club has organized a 'Cultural Street' in front of Pai's district office, where you can catch various cultural shows, including the Kingkalao Bird Dance (presented by members of the Thai Yai tribe) and the Ja Kue Dance (presented by members of the Lahu tribe). There are also lots of OTOP ('One Tambom, One Product') goods for sale along the Cultural Street.
There's a new 'Learning Center' located near Pai Hospital that we should also mention here. This presents information about the Thai Yai people, which represents the province's most populous tribe. You can discover how to make an authentic Thai Yai lantern, learn about the history of the province, or purchase OTOP or hill tribe produced goods here, too.
There are several other interesting places to visit on the outskirts of the town, although the ride by bike to reach them is significantly more challenging, just for reference. If you're in any doubt, you might want to check out an alternative mode of transport, such as a motorbike or rental car. One of the most impressive of these destinations is Hai Aui Ta Kam Pai, which is a homestay and 'learning destination' located in Tung Yao sub-district. The focus is on living a 'nature-reliant lifestyle' without the use of modern technology.
Promoting Self-Reliance
Folks staying at the homestay support the concept of a self-sufficient lifestyle by growing rice, planting vegetables and feeding animals, while building structures from natural materials. This tends to impress foreign visitors, who often opt to stay on for longer to discover more about this alternative lifestyle.
Near Hai Aui Ta Kam Pai is the largest rice field in Pai, covering over 1,600 square meters. The field belongs to many local families, who live along its boundary and it's quite unique since a great deal of the land around town has now been turned into guest house or resort developments.
There are several other attractions that are located a bit further away, such as the Santichon Village, which is a community of Chinese folks from Yunnan province who migrated to the area about 10 years ago. There are several forms of local products for sale, including teas, pickles and dried fruits, while all the stores and residences are built of clay. We recommend you try the kha moo man tou (pig's trotters with stuffed Chinese steamed buns).
There are also lots of natural attractions nearby, such as the Tha Pai Hot Springs, which come under the supervision of the Huay Nam Dang National Park. The water here reaches up to 80°C and a formal bathing area is available to visitors (Entrance fee: 20 baht).
Kong Lan was caused by subsidence and resembles a raised path along mountainous terrain, somewhat similar in appearance to Pae Muang Pee ('the Desolate Forest') in Phrae province. Locals refer to this attraction as the 'road of the water monitor' (kong refers to a road and lan is the word for water monitor). The idea is that a water monitor would be the creature best suited to walking along its narrow path.
The Historical Bridge is another interesting attraction. The bridge was actually known as Nawarat Bridge and stood in Chiang Mai province previously. After being out of service for a considerable time, it was handed over to Pai district office (on request) after the old wooden bridge that crossed the Pai River was destroyed during floods in 1973.
The local people seemed particularly friendly and it's worth noting that a trip to Pai during the lush, green 'off' season allows visitors to appreciate some aspects of the beautiful natural surroundings that might seem less obvious when the crowds descend upon the town during the cool winter months.
For further information about Pai, contact the Pai Tourism Club on Tel: +66 (0)53 698 055, or call the Mae Hong Son office of the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) on Tel: +66 (0)53 612 982-3.
Translated and republished with the kind permission of ASTV Manager.
Credit: TAT News (www.tatnews.org)
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