Phuket: Thalang Road a Focal Point For Sino-Portuguese Architecture
Youthapong Charoenpan
It's interesting to note that a typical signboard in Phuket often displays an enterprise's name in Thai, English and Chinese, demonstrating the importance the resort island has among not only its significant native Thai-Chinese population – many Chinese flocked to
the province in the 19th century when the island became more actively involved in tin mining – but also to the tourists from further afield who now pay a visit to the province to learn more about its links to Chinese culture.
Among many foreign tourists, Phuket is one of the most popular destinations due to its incredible beaches, sunny weather and warm seas. But there is also an interesting cultural aspect with respect to the island and its Thai-Chinese connections, as can clearly be evidenced by the numerous examples of Sino-Portuguese architecture found throughout Phuket Town.
People of Chinese ancestry make up a fairly large part of Phuket's population, many having descended from the original tin miners who migrated from China. Peranakans, known as Phuket Babas locally, account for a fair share of the Chinese community, particularly those with family ties with the Peranakans of Malaysia's Penang and Malacca.
The architectural style referred to Sino-Portuguese within Asia has in fact been influenced by several European cultures, although the Portuguese, as one of the earliest colonial powers active in the region, would be the most significant influence, hence the widespread use of this term.
A large number of buildings featuring this classic blend of Chinese and Portuguese architectural influences can also be found in Indonesia, Macau, Malaysia's Malacca and Penang, as well as in Singapore.
STRONG>A popular attraction
In a lot of tour guidebooks, visitors to Phuket are urged to take their time while wandering along Thalang Road, Dibuk Road and Krabi Road within the old part of Phuket Town, although several of the members of the tour groups that I saw arrive early in the morning on their buses seemed keen to complete the circuit in double quick time.
The walls of some Sino-Portuguese shop houses are sometimes partially decorated with tiles, although you will notice that in many cases these have long since fallen into disrepair.
Thalang Road is probably the best place to head for in terms of the volume of Sino-Portuguese shop houses on the island. These days the street is mainly made up of textile stores and tailors run by members of the local, largely Muslim, Indian community. Members of this group of locals also run batik stores along with stores selling bedding and cotton clothing imported from India.
A welcome break
For those considering a visit to Thalang Road, I would recommend you stop off at the China Inn Cafe and Restaurant, which is just off Thalang Road on Soi Romanee (a soi is a small street). This popular little eatery is located in one of the area's best examples of
a Sino-Portuguese shop house, which provides a view of the temple of Wat Kallang on nearby Deebuk Road. Interestingly, Soi Romanee was the island's red light district up until the early part of the 20th century.
China Inn Cafe and Restaurant is run by a local lady who has been fascinated by the building since she was young. Although she rents the building for business purposes, she decided to maintain the original characteristics of the building, spending over three million baht (US$88,000) on the restoration and refurbishment. Based on my visit, it would seem to be more popular among foreign visitors to the area.
Walking along Thalang Road is actually rather like being part of a living museum, and, if you take your time and don't rush, a visit to this part of town should give you an indication of how the island's unique multicultural influences and roots have ensured its place in the hearts of many foreign visitors to the kingdom.
Credit: TAN Network (www.tannetwork.tv)
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