Phutthamonthon: Buddhist Park Remains a Top Drawer Destination
Nida Tunsuttiwong
Among all the public parks in Bangkok and its surrounding provinces, I would nominate Phuttamonthon in Nakhon Pathom province as the most serene and impressive.
Sometimes spelled Buddha Monthon (monthon is a Thai word for mandala - a geometric design symbolic of the universe), the park covers 2,500 rai (400 hectares) and is located 56 kilometers west of Bangkok,
Strongman’s legacy
In 1957, during the final year of his second period of rule (April 1948-September 1957), Field Marshal Plaek Phibulsongkhram, then prime minister, proposed the establishment of the park to commemorate the 2,500th anniversary of the Lord Buddha (and Buddhism).
The military strongman’s previous stint as premier lasted through most of World War II, beginning in December 1938 and ending in August 1944.
While the park was inaugurated and the construction got underway in 1957, the project faced problems with budgetary management, leading to an incredibly long delay. It wasn’t until 1978, during the administration of Gen Kriangsak Jamanandana (November 1977-May 1979) that a budget was secured to continue the work.
In 1982, as the 200th anniversary of the start of the Rattanakosin Era (1782-present) neared, members of the public donated a huge sum of money to ensure that the project would be completed in time for the celebrations. The work was finally completed and so the park was officially opened to the public on December 21 of that year.
A master leaves his mark
While several buildings were later added, including a convention hall and museum, by far the most gracious feature within the park is a walking Buddha statue in the 'Lila' posture called Phra Si Sakkaya Thotsaphonlayan Prathan Phutthamonthon Suthat.
Prof Silpa Bhirasi (1892-1962 born: Corrado Feroci, Florence, Italy), the renowned artist who was instrumental in founding Silpakorn University, and who is widely considered to be ‘the Father of modern art in Thailand’ designed the statue. Reaching a height of 15.87 meters, the bronze statue is the tallest free-standing Buddha statue in the world.
If you looked down on the site of the park from a great height, you’d see that it is square shaped, while the impressive Buddha statue is located at the center of the site, facing out towards the entrance to the park at Utthayan Avenue (also known as Aksa Road). The avenue features a number of beautiful lanes, featuring 979 lamp posts decorated with Hongse, the mythical swanlike bird that is believed to be the mount of the god Brahma.
Sited to the left and right of the statue are Pipal and Sal trees (Shorea robusta), which were originally presented to Thailand as gifts from the Indian government.
Four phases
The statue is also surrounded by four memorial sites, which serve to remind visitors of the four most important events in the life of the Lord Buddha.
The first site features seven lotus flowers, reminding visitors of the birth of the Lord Buddha. The second site - a stone throne shaped like a blooming lotus - reminds visitors of the Lord Buddha’s enlightenment.
The third site features the Dhamma Chakra (‘Wheel of Law’) and stone seats for five followers of the Lord Buddha, reminding visitors of the Lord Buddha's first sermon. The fourth site features a horizontal stone throne and a stone seat for Phra Ananda, a prominent follower of the Lord Buddha. This reminds visitors of the moment when the Lord attained the state of Parinibbhana (‘passing away’), thereby bringing to an end the cycle of reincarnation.
The main statue is also surrounded by a number of traditional Thai pavilions where visitors can get some respite from the sun, or just sit and chat about the Lord Buddha's teachings.
Located at the end of a shaded lane, just behind the main statue, is a large marble pavilion, which houses the entire Tripitaka (Buddhist Canon), which comprises 1,418 marble stelas.
In the middle of the pavilion, which is surrounded by water, you’ll see nine gold Chedis, under which you’ll see a marble statue of the highly revered abbot Luang Por Mongkol Thepmunee, also known as Luang Por Sod. The late Luang Por Sod was formerly an abbot at the temple of Wat Paknam, which was responsible for supporting the construction of the pavilion.
More colorful mural paintings depicting stories from the Tipitaka can be seen inside the pavilion, which benefits from natural daylight.
Museum reopening in the pipeline
Another interesting building within Phutthamonthon is the Buddhist museum located near the entrance of the park. The museum is currently being renovated, but it's scheduled to reopen in the near future.
Buddhists often visit Phutthamonthon on important religious days, such as Visakha Bucha Day, which falls on the full moon during the sixth lunar month, along with the beginning and end of Buddhist Lent.
Typically, during such occasions, visitors will participate in religious ceremonies, such as offering alms, or by listening to Buddhist sermons.
Getting around
Locals may come by car, while other visitors enjoy hiring bikes. Users of both vehicles can look out for an ideal spot to get some natural shade and sit back and listen to bird song. If you do opt to travel on foot, ensure you have plenty of water supplies if visiting on a weekday, since most of the beverage outlets tend to close during the week.
Phutthamonthon opens daily from 5 am through 7 pm. Bikes can be hired during 6 am-6 pm on weekends.
Transport connections:
Car: From Phra Pinklao Bridge, drive along Pinklao-Nakhon Chaisri Road (also called Boromratchachonnani Road) for about 19 km. Next, turn left on Phutthamonthon Sai 4 Road and continue for another 300 meters. You’ll see the park on your right.
Bus: Buses passing Phutthamonthon include regular bus No 84 Kor, 163, 164 and air-conditioned buses No 84 kor, 170, 539 and 547.
Credit: TAN Network (www.tannetwork.tv)
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