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Wat Aranyik: An Intriguing Insight Into Sukhothai-Era Temple Styling

Nida Tunsuttiwong

Last month, I traveled to the temple of Wat Aranyik in Phitsanulok province to participate in a 'Tod Kathin' ceremony, one of the most significant forms of merit-making festival, which is usually held during the final month of Buddhist Lent at a time defined by lunar factors.

To hold this ceremony, a monastery must have had five monks in residence during the rains retreat period and only those present throughout are eligible to receive the robes offered by the laity, as an expression of gratitude. Lay Buddhists bring donations to temples, particularly new robes for the monks.

Ancient Buddha statues

A comprehensive restoration

While the temple of Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Maha Worawihan is the neighborhood’s best known place of worship, due to the fact that it’s home to Phra Buddha Chinnarat, one of the kingdom’s most venerated images of the Buddha, many local people also wish to make merit at Wat Aranyik.

Dating back to the Sukhothai period (1238-1438), Wat Aranyik is surrounded by moats, a common architectural feature during this period of history. The temple was originally called Wat Pa Kaew (Wat means temple, Pa forest, and Kaew glass, although it is also used to refer to things considered to be beloved, pure, and of high value).

In 1775, the Burmese army attacked Phitsanulok and torched many temples, including Wat Aranyik. Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Maha Worawihan was the only temple to survive the attack, while what was left of Wat Aranyik faced the constant attention of looters.

About 50 years ago, a group of nuns led by a nun called Puang began a project aimed at restoring the ancient temple to its former glory, although little was achieved, sadly, due to a lack of funds and manpower. Fortunately, however, by 1969, the Buddhist hierarchy in Phitsanulok decided to assign Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Maha Worawihan with the task of helping to restore and rehabilitate Wat Aranyik.

Sacred ground

The first area I explore is the site of the temple’s original ordination hall. The area is surrounded by bai sema, which are traditional boundary-markers in the form of upright stone slabs. These stones separated the temple’s sacred area from common ground. All that remains of the ordination hall are its foundations and a number of Buddha images in various styles and from various eras. While its walls no longer stand, monks continue to hold certain religious ceremonies on the site.

Right behind the ordination hall is the site of the remains of a bell-shaped pagoda. Historical evidence suggests that during its heyday, the pagoda was surrounded by 68 elephant statues, as well as eight small pavilions, each housing a standing Buddha image. Only a few reproductions of the elephant statues remain, which were produced by the Department of Fine Arts.

Reproduction elephant statues

Unlike many other historical sites, Wat Aranyik only receives a handful of visitors and is often home to local children looking for something to do, as well as a few chickens, wandering around the site. This provides a pleasant reminder of the unhurried ways of country life, something city dwellers need to experience from time to time.

At the far corner of the temple is a brand new ordination hall where artists are still busy producing traditional, religious mural paintings. This small but elegant building will serve as the new home of a Buddha image, which is being produced to resemble Phra Buddha Chinnarat.

Transport connections:

Car: There are two main routes from Bangkok to Phitsanulok.

Firstly, you can take Highway 1 to Wang Noi, then proceed to Nakhon Sawan province along Highway 32 via the provinces of Ayutthaya, Ang Thong and Sing Buri. Take Highway 117, just after Singburi, which will take you all the way to Phitsanulok. The total distance covered is 337 kilometers.

Alternatively, take Highway 1 to Sing Buri and switch to Highway 11 (Tak Fa route), then turn onto Highway 12 and proceed to Phitsanulok via Wang Thong district. The total distance covered is 450 km.

Once you're in the city, you should be able to locate Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Maha Worawihan by following signposts since it is one the province's most popular tourist destinations. Once you reach Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Maha Worawihan, head eastbound on Phitsanulok-Wang Thong Road (Road 12). After you cross a bridge over the railway, turn left at the next intersection and then right at the next intersection (Phraya Suea Road). Wat Aranyik is located at the end of this road.