Chinese Trade Ties Helped Fuel Temple Restoration Effort
Nida Tunsuttiwong
Since Theravada Buddhism is the kingdom’s principal religion, you’ll see thousands upon thousands of temples right across the country. While some people believe that all Buddhist temples are fairly similar, this is not really the case as I discovered personally during a recent visit to an interesting Royal temple located near the Memorial Bridge in Bangkok.
A colorful history
The minor Royal temple (categorized as a Worawihan), known formally as Wat Phitchaya Yatikaram Worawiharn, is located on Somdet Chao Phraya Road.
It is thought the temple was deserted for several years. Although there are no written records regarding the year of its establishment, the temple underwent some major restoration work during 1829-1832, initiated by Somdet Chao Phraya Borommaha Phichaiyat, a nobleman who was also known as That Bunnag ('Lord Bunnag'), during a period when he served as a high-ranking official in the Royal court. During the reign of King Rama III (1824-1851), That Bunnag humbly offered it to the monarch as a Royal temple.
King Rama III initially named the temple Wat Phraya Yatikaram, but during the reign of King Rama IV (1851-1868), the temple was renamed Wat Phichaya Yatikaram. Locals abbreviated this to Wat Phichaiyat. Worawiharn was added at a later date when the temple was officially categorized as such.
Benefits of trade
The reason the temple stands out is the strong Chinese influences in terms of its architectural appearance. During the major renovation period, That Bunnag was in charge of Siam's trade with China, so he was able to import a number of useful raw materials from there, including colorful tiles, various forms of stone and ballast.
When you walk into the temple, you'll see an ubosot (ordination hall) with a large roof that reminded me of a hood from a Chinese carriage. The principal Buddha image is from the Sukhothai era (1238-1583) and is known as Phra Sittharot.
Inside the temple, its pillars are decorated with colorful Chinese dragons, while some doors and window panels feature paintings that are clearly Thai. Unlike most of the ubosot you come across in Thailand, this one has no chorfa ('gable apex'). The gable features colorful Chinese stucco, depicting dragons, flowers and mythical birds. The ubosot is also surrounded by a number of stone carvings, depicting scenes from the famous Chinese historical novel Romance of the Three Kingdoms.
Even further inside, I came across a group of three prangs (stupa), five statues of the Dhyani Buddhas (also known as the 'Five Great Buddhas') and four replicas of the Lord Buddha's footprints. From this area, you can enjoy stunning views of the temple and the surrounding area.
The temple isn't only famous for its architectural features, however, since many Buddhists in and around Bangkok consider it an excellent place to make merit, particularly on the weekend. Lay persons are welcome to participate in the various Buddhist-related programs taking place at the temple, practice meditation, or listen to dhamma talks based on the Lord Buddha's teachings.
For further information, contact Tel: +66 (0)2 861 4530 or +66 (0)2 861 5425.
Transport connections:
Boat: Take a Chao Phraya Express Boat to Memorial Bridge pier (N6). Not far from the pier, you will see Phra Phutta Yodfa Bridge. Cross over the bridge, while keeping left. Once you reach the other side, you'll find Somdet Chao Phraya Road at the foot of the bridge. Walk down this road for about 100 meters and you'll find the temple on your right-hand side.
POI: 13.73356, 100.49696
Credit: TAN Network (www.tannetwork.tv)
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