Lang Suan Walking Street: Tons of Toothsome Treats
Youthapong Charoenpan
Around the peaceful little town of Lang Suan in the southern province of Chumphon, the air is incredibly clean and invigorating, while the smiles I received from the local residents during my recent visit seemed genuinely warm and welcoming.
Located on the Kra Isthmus ('the Isthmus of Kra'), Chumphon is widely considered to be a form of 'gateway to the south' - running alongside the Gulf of Thailand, Chumphon is technically the kingdom's northernmost southern province. Lang Suan has an interesting history as it was once a province in its own right until 1932, when it was abolished and incorporated within Chumphon (the town now falls within Lang Suan district).
Rural Charm
Chumphon differs markedly from the better known provinces further south, as it has successfully managed to retain a good deal of its original charm. In this sense, Chumphon's 'gateway' status seems to have protected it from the rather unsavory aspects of mass tourism that have now become prevalent in the provinces of Krabi, Phuket and Surat Thani. Most of the local residents are farmers or work on plantations cultivating palm and rubber trees.
The best time to visit Lang Suan is late on a Thursday afternoon or early on a Thursday evening, since its weekly Walking Street is held during that time (from 5-10 pm). With vendors lined up along a 150-meter stretch of the town's Looksua Street, the Walking Street makes for a charming destination as there are numerous notable wooden shop house buildings located along both sides of the thoroughfare.
In general, Lang Suan Walking Street offers better value when it comes to dining rather than shopping. There are plenty of vendors selling interesting goods, such as used combat trousers, colorful and funky T-shirts, shoes and sunglasses, as well as bric-a-brac, such as bangles, necklaces and stainless steel lighters, but many of these items can also be found easily enough in Bangkok's Pratunam and the prices in Lang Suan seemed a little higher than you would expect to find in the capital.
Divine Delights
The most pleasant surprise when strolling along Lang Suan's Walking Street is the variety of culinary treats on offer, especially when it comes to desserts.
Among the treats on sale during my visit was khanom chak (a dessert made with grilled nipa palm). I can assure you that this particular treat was especially succulent. You'll also find vendors selling grilled chicken and pork on skewers, khao gaeng (curries with rice and side dishes), as well as some affordable (and homemade) sushi.
In fact, I must admit that I found it difficult to stop myself from paying a visit to every stall, especially when so many of the vendors seemed happy to offer me a free taste with apparently no obligation to buy whatsoever.
All in all, I can report that I pretty much fell in love with Lang Suan – not just because of the diverse range of culinary treats on sale, but also due to the welcome I received from the warm and friendly locals.
Flag Grabbers
Every year, a boat race is held in Lang Suan district, known as the Lang Suan Procession and Boat Race (Keun Khon Ching Thong). This exciting race differs from other boat races in that one of the crew on board each competing vessel needs to grab a flag as the boat is crossing the line in order to become the winner. This year's races will be held during October 10-16.
For further information, call Chumphon's Provincial Office of Tourism and Sport on Tel: +66 (0)77 504 940, or the Chumphon office of the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) on Tel: +66 (0)77 501 831.
Transport Connections:
The Walking Street on Looksua Street is adjacent to Lang Suan Railway Station in Chumphon's Lang Suan district.
Car: From Bangkok, take Highway 4 (Petchkasem Road) through the provinces of Nakhon Pathom, Ratchaburi, Phetchaburi and Prachuap Khiri Khan until you reach the town of Chumphon. On arrival in Chumphon, follow the signs for Lang Suan district.
Bus: Air-conditioned and non-air conditioned buses depart daily for Chumphon's Lang Suan district from Bangkok's Southern Bus Terminal. For further information, call the service operator on Tel: +66 (0)2 894 6122.
Train: Trains depart Bangkok’s central Hualamphong Railway Station bound for Lang Suan district on a daily basis. For further information regarding departure times, call the State Railway of Thailand (SRT) on Tel: +66 (0)2 220 4444.
Credit: TAT News (www.tatnews.org)
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