Charismatic Photharam Retains Its Innate Charms
UPDATE : 15 February 2011
Maneeya Dhammataree
Photharam was once one of the most significant and active areas of Ratchaburi, a central province located about 80 kilometers west of Bangkok. While the neighborhood has experienced several periods of decline over the years, several of its most interesting characteristics, such as its ancient wooden residences and its inhabitants' local customs, have captured the public's imagination again recently, providing the ancient community with a renewed sense of vigor.
Cooperative Spirit
Photharam is divided into three main areas: Talad Bon ('upper market'), Talad Klang ('middle market') and Talad Lang ('lower market'). Unfortunately, many ancient wooden buildings were destroyed or had to be demolished following a huge blaze in 1966 and the majority of the residences that survived are located in the Talad Bon neighborhood.
As I made my way along a one-way street that leads from Talad Bon to Talad Lang, I noticed how residents of Chinese and Mon descent manage to live in complete harmony with their Thai neighbors. Indeed, there's a Mon temple and a Thai temple, along with three Chinese shrines located within a short distance from each other within this particular neighborhood.
As I made my way back towards Talad Bon, I walked along Neung Pradit, which features single-story wooden homes along both sides of the street. Most operate as shop houses, so among these buildings you'll find grocery stores and photography shops, which have experienced a gradual decline over the years as they passed from one generation to the next.
Several buildings, however, have been tastefully renovated in a retro style and now operate as coffee shops, or as private art or music schools. While they have been freshly decorated, they nevertheless blend in very well with the non-modernized structures.
A Glimpse Into The Past
One of the most memorable buildings within Talad Bon is an old theater called Vic Kru Tawee (see photo, above), which literally means, 'the theater of teacher Tawee'. Although the theater has not operated as a theater for 13 years now, the fixtures and fittings remain just as they were before the curtain was drawn on the final performance. In fact, the calendar on the wall of the projection room still hasn't been adjusted, highlighting to visitors the theater's closing day. It's interesting to see the original screen and about 200 fold-able wooden chairs, too, which remain just as they were when the theater's working life finally came to an end.
Talad Klang is the liveliest part of the Photharam community these days as it plays host to a fresh market. While the vendors sell various forms of farm produce, there are also plenty of noodle stalls and other eateries, which tend to open 'from dawn till dusk'.
The old train station (see main photo) signifies a de facto boundary between Photharam and its neighboring district. The building's structure has been well maintained and has been freshly painted and decorated with nicely designed tiles. This particular spot is considered to be Photharam's most photogenic, so it's often used by film crews as a setting for movies or commercials.
The majority of the community's inhabitants of Chinese descent live in the Talad Lang neighborhood. Although the majority of the neighborhood's wooden homes are in the Talad Bon neighborhood, the best single example of an ancient wooden building is found within Talad Lang. Located on Songphon Road, the building was once a fish sauce factory. Among the building's most significant sights are its impressive wall panels.
To return to Talad Bon, take the road that runs alongside the Mae Klong River. Along the way you'll see an old clock tower, which is another significant symbol representing this fascinating, historic community.
Transport Connections:
Train: The State Railway of Thailand (SRT) operates one train a day to Photharam from Bangkok's central Hualamphong Station. The train (No. 261) leaves at 9.20 am and the journey to Ratchaburi takes about two hours. For further information, call Tel: 1690 (or +66 [0]2 220 4444 [includes English language support]).
Car: From Bangkok, take Highway 4. The road passes through Nakhon Pathom province before veering in a southerly direction towards Ratchaburi. Turn right at Ban Phae on to Route 3357, which will lead you to Photharam. The journey by car takes around one hour, depending on traffic conditions.
Credit: TAN Network (www.tannetwork.tv)
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