The pulse of Chiang Mai
MOST TOURISTS VISITING WAROROT MARKET FAIL TO APPRECIATE ITS ETHNIC MIX AND CULTURAL DIVERSITY
For Bangkokians travelling to Chiang Mai, Warorot Market is the market of choice for it is the best place to sample local delicacies, such as kaeb moo (fried pork rind), sai ua (Northern-style sausages), nam prik noom (chilli paste), or buy winter fruits and flowers for back home. But little do they know the area it sits in is also a melting pot of Thai, Chinese, Indian, Muslim, and Western cultures.
Namdharis are an offshoot of Sikhs, and this is their temple in Chiang Mai.
Within walking distance from the market, also known as Kad Luang, are Chinese shrines Guan Yu and Pung Tao Gong, Buddhist temples Wat San Fang, Wat Uppakut and Wat Ket Karam, and a Namdhari temple; the Namdhari movement is an offshoot of Sikhism.
Other attractions include Luang Anusarnsunthorn Residence, Chiang Mai Philatelic Museum, Ton Lam Yai Market, Chansom Memorial Bridge, and the iconic Nawarat Bridge.
"People here come from various ethnic backgrounds and represent five religions that have existed side by side in harmony," said Somwang Ritthidej, who sits on the Wat Ket Karam committee.
The history of Kad Luang dates back to the 19th century. Early markets took shape along the Ping River on the outskirts of Chiang Mai city around 150 years ago and grew into major communities. Many Indian fabric traders settled in Chiang Mai, mostly by the Ping River, when India was still a British colony. The Chinese did the same, travelling by boat from the Central region and settling near Wat Ket Karam and in the vicinity of Kad Luang about the same time. They built two shrines: Pung Thao Gong near present-day Ton Lam Yai Market, and Bu Bia (Guan Yu) in Lao Jo Alley. The Namdhari temple next to Wat Ket Karam was built 101 years ago by Indian migrants who later added a Hindu temple and mosque.
In 1867, during the reign of Phra Chao Kawilarotsuriyawong, the sixth king of Chiang Mai, US missionaries Daniel and Sophia McGilvary led a group of Presbyterians there and built a church by the Ping River around the Khuang Mane cemetery, and introduced modern medicine, nursing and schools to Chiang Mai.
The former residence of philanthropist Luang Anusarnsunthorn.
Off Praisanee Road that runs parallel to the river is Pung Thao Gong, Chiang Mai's first Chinese shrine, built more than 130 years ago. Single-storey and close to the river, it received a major facelift in 1976 and was rebuilt in 1996. Decorated with beautiful stucco sculptures and patterns, enshrined here is a statue of Chao Mae Tubtim, a goddess highly respected by the Hainan Chinese.
East of Warorot in Lao Jo (Elderly Ancestors) Alley is another shrine, Bu Bia. According to one legend, the shrine was built by gangsters who controlled Chinese labour in Chiang Mai and, as the name suggests, they must have been good at martial arts because "Bu" means martial arts and "Bia" shrine. It's also called Guan Yu, in honour of the Chinese god of loyalty. Dating at least 120 years, the shrine is also dedicated to King Inthawitchayanon of Chiang Mai, who passed away in 1897. Decorated with Chinese sculptures and artwork, it bears dharma inscriptions penned in Chinese and the Lanna alphabet that, according to an article by historian Akkapol Satoon, are tributes to the king and his queen, Thipkesorn.
Around Warorot stand several ancient beautiful shophouses, including two-storey half-brick half-wooden buildings and single-storey wooden buildings with clay roof tiles. One highlight is Luang Anusarnsunthorn Residence, a cluster of eight two-storey buildings connected by balconies on Tha Pae Road opposite Buddhastan Chiang Mai, an association of local Buddhists.
Anantachai Nimmanahaeminda, a descendent of philanthropist Luang Anusarnsunthorn (1867-1934), recalled that the residence was built in 1897 and at the turn of the last century it was the nerve centre of the family's banking and mortgage business. Later, the first floor was turned into a commodity storage facility while the second floor served as the family's residence. Luang Anusarnsunthorn, also an ardent photographer, is credited with opening the first photo shop in Chiang Mai.
A chapel at Wat Ket Karam.
Not far away is the Chiang Mai Philatelic Museum, a colonial-style building on Praisanee Road, which was formerly the Mae Ping post office, where on display is a vast collection of ancient postal equipment and photos, including rare postage stamps, postboxes and mail measuring tools.
On the eastern banks of the Ping River is Wat Ket Karam. A century or so ago the area was lush with longan orchards, and there were piers where elephants were used to haul logs that were floated downstream. Today, the area is full of beautiful architecture and representative art of Buddhist, Christian, Islamic and Sikh/Hindu faiths, and they remain in good condition, thanks to the joint efforts of all parties concerned to conserve the local culture.
A stone inscription tells visitors to Wat Ket Karam it was built by King Sam Fang Kaen in 1428, for which a 2,000-strong workforce was assembled. The architecture is ancient Burmese and Sino-Thai. The main pagoda called julamanee is decorated with handmade jean-see stained glass. The temple is a must-visit for those born in the Year of the Dog.
According to Somwang, 67, Wat Ket Karam is a mixed blend of Burmese, Lanna, Chinese and European art and architecture. "The ubosot and vihara are done in Lanna style while the Buddha images carry distinct Burmese overtones."
In the temple compound is a museum displaying antiques such as Burmese-style Buddha images and altars, Lanna musical instruments, native costumes, pottery, fabrics and handicrafts, old books and pictures. To the local people, Warorot and the area around the market is part of their daily life.
"I have been living by the Ping River since birth. When I was a boy I loved to swim or paddle my way to Kad Luang in a boat," Somwang said.
The flower section of Warorot Market.
An ancient postbox stands in front of the museum.
Chiang Mai Philatelic Museum showcases the early years of the postal service in the province.
Chansom Memorial Bridge, or Khua Khaek, located where Khua Kula, as Thailand’s first teak bridge, was built by US missionary Dr Marian M. Cheek in the late 1800s.
TIPS
Kad Luang and the attractions surrounding it sit in the heart of Chiang Mai near the Ping River, east of Tha Pae Gate and west of Nawarat Bridge, with the China Gate an outstanding landmark.
The Chiang Mai PhilatelicMuseumon Praisanee Road is open Tuesday through Sunday from 8:30am-4:30pm, except on public holidays.
Credit: Bangkok Post (www.bangkokpost.com)
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