Is a year really long enough to discover the beauty, secrets and unique nooks and crannies of Rome? Probably not. But Our Magazine guide takes you on a tour of the best bars and restaurants – all well-off the beaten track. Plus a host of other information. Read it now!
OLD ROME
In the heart of Rome – the place where it all began – are all the scenes necessary for your own Roman Holiday.
Drink
Coffee at Caffè Capitolino in the Capitoline Museums (caffecapitolino.it), with fine views of the city and, on a clear day, the Alban Hills.Stay
Hotel Forum (hotelforumrome.com) has a roof garden with views over the Capitol and Roman Forum. For a close encounter with history, the Palazzo Manfredi (hotelgladiatori.it), overlooks the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and the Domus Aurea; head to the hotel terrace to see the ruins at dusk.Eat
There are many restaurants that cater mostly to tourists, so it’s better to explore the Centro Storico or Tridente areas (see Eat sections elsewhere in this guide).See/Do
Everywhere you look, history reveals itself. Start at the start, exploring the archaeological centre from the Colosseum, Imperial Rome’s most enduring icon (and now the haunt of out-of-work actors hustling a living as centurians), and the Domus Aurea, towards the arch of Constantine, the Roman forum, Palatine Hill and the extraordinary Capitol, home to the world’s oldest archaeological museum (see issue nine of this magazine), where the city was born. Continue to the Theatre of Marcellus, Bocca della verità, Circus Maximus and the Appia Antica, close to the Baths of Caracalla (one of the most ambitious bathing complexes built by the Romans), where Ferrari won its first ever race. For a new perspective on old things, explore the Vigna Barberini terrace on Palatine Hill, which opened at the end of 2009 and overlooks the Colosseum and the Arch of Constantine. Nearby are the capitoline museums (museicapitolini.org), the world’s oldest museums, filled with ancient art, including a 2nd-century statue of Marcus Aurelius on horseback commanding a room on the first floor and the fantastic Caffarelli Terrace, on the top floor. Worth a closer look (if only for the magnificent city panorama from the top) is the Vittoriano, a building widely loathed by locals. Take a sunset stroll among the orange trees in the Parco Savello on the Aventine Hill, which has splendid views; or discover a famous and utterly unique view of St Peter’s dome through the ornate keyhole of the Priory of the order of the knights of Malta.
CENTRO STORICO
This large area encompasses some of Rome’s most famous destinations.
See/Do
Nestled in the curve of the Tiber is Piazza Navona, in the centre of which stands Bernini’s quattro fiumi fountain, flanked on each side by the neptune and moro fountains. A couple of streets away is the Pantheon: visit at dawn when the Piazza della Rotonda is deserted, or pass by at night to see this remarkable building glowing gold from its illuminations. Head to Campo dei Fiori, the site of the city’s oldest fruit and vegetable market (open daily except Sundays) during the day and a popular meeting point in the evening, and the monumental 16th-century Palazzo Farnese. The Scuderie del Quirinale on Via XXIV Maggio are the former Papal stables, now a complex of galleries staging exhibitions covering everything from Old Masters to contemporary young bucks. The restored Palazzo delle Esposizioni on Via Nazionale, is the largest exhibition centre in the city, showcasing various cultural phenomena, from art and photography to theatre and film. Walk through the narrow streets that lead to the Piazza di Trevi to view the baroque masterpiece of the Trevi fountain. Visit the magic spaces of the Trajan markets (mercatiditraiano.it) where important art exhibitions are organised.Stay
Live like a local in the chicest style possible at Casa Manni (casamanni.com), an apartment-hotel west of the Via del Corso, not far from the Trevi Fountain. Owned by Armando Manni, former film director and olive oil entrepreneur, every last detail is considered, from the Adam D Thiany interior to the private tailored city tours on offer from local experts. The Raphael Hotel (raphaelhotel.com), close to Piazza Navona, combines understated elegance and decoration, including Mayan artefacts and a collection of ceramics by Picasso, and two new executive floors designed by American architect Richard Meier. For something completely different, let the bright lights of the sizeable Radisson Blue Es Hotel Rome (radissonblu.com/eshotel-rome) lure you into one of its many minimalist bedrooms. There’s a 20-metre rooftop pool and bar for hot summer days, and even its own ruins of an ancient Roman road in the lobby.Drink
Take your place three-deep at the bar at Tazza d’Oro coffee shop (tazzadorocoffeeshop.com), near the Pantheon, or the legendary Sant’Eustachio il Caffè (santeustachioilcaffe.it), serving up a revitalising espresso and cappuccino. Order an aperitivo at Établi (etabli.it), a light and airy lounge bar and restaurant in a 17th-century building full of lived-in armchairs and digital nomads sat at rustic Provençal tables tuned into the wifi. The caffè della Pace (06 686 1216), on Via della Pace, is a much-loved spot for Romans to get their caffeine fix and then, later in the evening, nip upstairs to work their way through the long-and-winding wine list. Peoplewatch over your coffee cup from one of the cluster of bars in Piazza di Pietra or over a glass of prosecco in Campo dei Fiori, as its oldest and best-loved bar, la Vineria. Stop for refreshment in il Giardino del Tè in Via del Boschetto (ilgiardinodelte.it) and take your pick of fine teas from around the world.
Eat
Hostaria Constanza (hostariacostanza.com), near Campo dei Fiori, is an atmospheric restaurant in the caves excavated under the Theatre Pompey. Make like Michele Obama and head to Maccheroni(ristorantemaccheroni.com) with its white-washed vaulted rooms on Piazza delle Coppelle and dine, inevitably, on pasta, try the traditional Piperno (ristorantepiperno.it), where you can eat the house speciality of fried artichokes, or try the equally excellent Giggetto al Portico di Ottavia (giggetto.it), a former inn that has been in the same family for three generations. If you’re in the mood for some pizza, try Da Francesco (06 686 4009) on Piazza del Fico, or drop in on the wonderfully atmospheric Santo Padre (06 474 5405) on Via Collina, for some red-blooded meaty treats. Feast on catch of the day supplied by a fishing cooperative in Ponza to respected seafood eatery Il Sanlorenzo (ilsanlorenzo.it ) in Via dei Chiavari, or sit down for some classic local flavours at Cacio e Pepe (06 321 7268) on Via Giuseppe Avezzana. Try the very special Al Moro (06 678 3495) tucked away behind the Trevi fountain, a proud flag waver for true Roman cuisine or sample some delicious ice cream at Giolitti (giolitti.it) in Via Uffici del Vicario (close to Piazza Navona). Al Presidente (alpresidente.it) in Via In Arcione serves a varied Mediterranean and Roman menu, with seafood a speciality. For a quick alternative, try the Obikà mozzarella bar (obika.it) in Piazza di Firenze for light snacks. Urbana 47 (urbana47.it), a restaurant that’s serious about good food, serves up everything organic and sourced as locally as possible.
PUBLISHED IN HOME, PLACES BY KATE CROCKETT ON 04.14.2011
Credit: Ferrari S.p.A. (www.ferrari.com)
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