Wat Kaewpichit: Early Foreign Influences 'Expertly Blended'
Staff Writer
Located on a quiet stretch of the Bangpakong River in Prachin Buri province, the ubosot ('assembly hall') at the temple of Wat Kaewpichit features a lavish, ornamental facade, unlike any found in traditional Thai architectural forms.
Located about 140 kilometers east of Bangkok in Muang district's Bang Boriboon sub-district, the ubosot has long raised the curiosity of art and cultural connoisseurs, who typically wonder how Chinese, Khmer, Thai and Western styles could be so successfully blended.
The construction of the ubosot - commissioned by Chao Phraya Abhaibhubej - was completed in 1919. Chao Phraya Abhaibhubej (Choom Abhaiwongse [1861-1922]) was the last lord governor of Battambang before Siam gave up the province, together with Siem Reap and Sisophon, to French-ruled Cambodia in 1907. The present ubosot replaced an earlier one built when the temple was first established in 1879.
Chao Phraya Abhaibhubej was a civil servant in the ministry of interior during the reign of King Chulalongkorn the Great (Rama V [1868-1910]). He lived in Prachin Buri during the latter stages of his life and was responsible for founding Abhaibhubej Hospital.
The ubosot provides an insight into the life of the aristocrat, who had experienced several tense political relations while serving the Royal court of Siam. You could almost consider it a form of social and cultural record of relations between Siam and other foreign powers that had come into contact with the country.
A combination of influences
The building provides a fine example of how multiple artistic influences can be successfully blended. While the building’s structure and superstructure follow Thai traditions, the decorative details employ Khmer, Chinese, and Western artistic styles.
Upon entering the entrance to the ubosot’s compound, you'll see a Khmer-style gate, which features the faces of Kala (a Hindu god of death) on its tiered lintels. Kala has appeared on ancient Khmer monuments during certain periods of history.
Standing within the compound, tall pillars support the ubosot’s tiered roof, perhaps reminding visitors of Greek pillars until spotting lotus buds around the capitals (the distinctively treated upper ends of pillars or columns). At the top of each pillar is a Thai buttress decorated with Thepanom, a form of celestial being in Buddhist cosmology and usually depicted in a worshiping posture.
The upper exterior walls are painted and feature Western-style motifs. The windows and doors are Gothic in shape and are elaborately framed with a golden bas-relief foliage motif.
The roof’s gable is decorated with Chinese dragons rather than a traditional Naga (a form of mythical serpent). The pediment, a form of low gable, features a Hindu god sitting in a pavilion adorned with Western-style foliage.
The ubosot houses the main Buddha image, which was designed by Prince Damrongrajanuparp, a historian and a son of King Mongkut, who is commonly referred to as 'the father of Thai history'. The sitting image is in a 'Granting Pardon' posture.
A portrait of Chao Phraya Abhaibhubej is featured at one side of the main Buddha image while the portrait of his granddaughter, Queen Suwattana, is located on the other side. Queen Suwattana was the fourth wife of King Rama VI, who reigned during 1910-1925.
Red and gold patterned motifs on a white background dominate the ceiling decoration. The chandeliers encourage the visitor to focus on the interior, where tall windows allow plenty of natural light to pour in.
Wat Kaewpichit remains a religious center for local residents. Although several buildings in the temple compound were added later, the ubosot remains the most attractive structure within the temple compound.
Architectural heritage allows us to admire artistic value and learn more about history. While the temple of Wat Kaewpichit features several foreign architectural influences, younger generations of Thai people will need to go some way to achieve the kind of successful worldly appeal found at this interesting religious site.
Transport connections:
Wat Kaewpichit lies alongside the Bangpakong River, about two kilometers east of Prachin Buri town.
Car: You can drive eastwards out of Bangkok and use Highway 305, which will take you via Nakhon Nayok to Prachin Buri. It is also possible to use Highway 304 and reach your destination via Chachoeongsao.
Bus: Air-conditioned and regular buses depart Morchit 2 bus terminal regularly and reach Prachin Buri via two routes – Hin Kong and Nakhon Nayok (85 baht), which run every 25 minutes, or via Ongkarak and Nakhon Nayok (75 baht), which run three times a day. For further information, call Tel: +66 (0)2 936 2852.
Train: There are seven trains a day operating between Bangkok's central station Hualamphong and Prachin Buri station, starting at 6 am and ending with the 5.25 pm train. For further information, call the State Railway of Thailand (SRT) helpline on Tel: +66 (0)2 220 4444.
Credit: TAN Network (www.tannetwork.tv)
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