Nida Tunsuttiwong
Since the Chao Phraya River, or 'River of Kings', is the country's most important waterway, many magnificent temples were built along its banks.
While cruising down the river at nighttime, I've often passed a beautiful white pagoda located at the temple of Wat Prayurawongsawat Worawiharn ('Prayurawongsawat Royal Monastery'), which is also known as Wat Prayoon. Unfortunately, I never seemed to get the chance to actually visit the temple, which is located at the foot of Saphan Phut ('Memorial Bridge').
However, when the temple recently celebrated its 180th anniversary, during which hundreds of amulets that were previously stored within the pagoda were put on show, I was provided with the ideal opportunity to make that long-awaited visit.
Noble origins
The temple's founding began in 1828 with the nobleman Dit Bunnag (1788-1855), who, during his time as minister in charge of the Royal treasury, foreign affairs, and defense, decided to build a temple on the grounds of a piece of land he owned that had until that point in time been used to grow coffee.
In 1832, Dit formally presented the temple to King Rama III, who named it Wat Prayurawongsawat Worawiharn after a title the founder would later have formally bestowed upon him (Chao Phraya Borom Maha Prayurawongse ['Regent of the kingdom']).
Dit also presented King Rama III with a red ironwork fence from Britain, along with a large carpet and three chandeliers, but the monarch did not accept them and returned them to Dit, who donated them to the temple. As the fencing is used to separate areas of the temple, locals also sometimes refer to Wat Prayoon as the 'iron fence temple'.
A historic moment in medicine
An important event took place within the temple's grounds on January 13, 1836, during the celebrations marking its official opening.
Dr Dan Beach Bradley, a famous American medical doctor (MD), linguist and printer, who was the first Western physician to enter Thailand as a missionary, noted that thousands of people turned out to celebrate the establishment of the new temple.
He noted in his diary that accidents related to gunpowder led to several deaths and many injuries. The American doctor was summoned to treat a monk’s broken arm. The surgical procedure he chose to carry out on the monk’s injured limb is officially recorded as being the first modern surgical procedure conducted in the kingdom.
The Bunnag family’s influence at Wat Prayoon would continue to play an important role in its development. Dit’s eldest son – Chuang Bunnag (Somdet Chao Phraya Borom Maha Si Suriyawongse) – was responsible for the construction of Phra Boromathat Maha Chedi, the temple’s white pagoda, which was the first Langa-style (also known as Ceylonese-style) pagoda to be built during the Rattanakosin Era (1782-present).
While the work on the pagoda was completed by 1855, the House of Bunnag continued to contribute to the temple’s development through the construction of additional buildings, or through the sponsorship of renovation efforts.
In 1871, lightning struck and damaged the top of Phra Boromathat Maha Chedi and it remained in this damaged condition for 47 years before being fixed.
A mini mountain
I entered the temple compound by means of a small gate that leads to Khao Mor (‘Mor Mountain’), which is actually more like a small, man-made mound situated in the middle of a pond. The mound is home to a stupa, in which a large number of Buddha images and amulets were stored.
Dit is said to have built Khao Mor to resemble some melted candles presented to him by King Rama III. As turtles live in the pond surrounding Khao Mor, it is also sometimes called Phukhao Tao (‘Turtle Mountain’).
Further inside the temple compound, I came across two ordination halls standing side-by-side. Since the one on the right only opens during religious ceremonies, I headed for the other - Viharn Luang Por Noi – which houses a 5.7-meter-tall Buddha image called Phra Buddha Nak.
This ancient image was relocated to Wat Prayoon from a temple in Sukhothai province in 1831. Since the image is considered to be the ‘younger brother’ of an image known as Phra Buddha Mak Yai (‘Elder Phra Buddha Nak’) at the temple of Wat Suthat Thepwararam on Bangkok's historic Rattanakosin island, the Phra Buddha Nak image at Wat Prayoon got given the name Phra Buddha Nak Noi (‘Little Phra Buddha Nak’). Phra Buddha Mak Yai is also known as Phra Sri Sakyamuni.
Khao Mor, Viharn Luang Por Noi, and Phra Buddha Nak Noi were officially given national heritage status on November 22, 1979.
A surprising discovery
In 2006, Phra Thammakosajarn (the temple’s current abbot) launched a large-scale renovation project for Phra Boromathat Maha Chedi and during November 5-7, 2007 he discovered a number of ancient amulets and Buddha relics hidden within the pagoda. The abbot also reported finding a slate chalk board, on which was scrawled a prediction – that the pagoda would be renovated in 2006 and the amulets and relics discovered. The mystic message also stated that other treasures were awaiting discovery inside the pagoda.
The amulets and relics are currently on display at a small museum called Prayoon Bhandakharn (‘Museum of Buddha Images’), which is located by the entrance to the pagoda. The museum opens seven days a week from 9 am until 9 pm. Other ancient Buddha images and amulets from other eras are also displayed here to highlight the temple’s rich history.
Glistening marks of respect
However, one of the most impressive attractions within this museum has to be a large chunk of gold. This is actually layers of real gold leaf that lay followers have applied over a period of more than 10 years to the face of Phra Buddha Sothorn (also known as Luang Por Sothorn), one of the country’s most revered Buddha images. The layer is now about half an inch thick and weighs almost five baht (a Thai measurement of weight equivalent to about 75.6 grams).
The temple is currently mobilizing funds for a project to renovate the pagoda’s inner pillar, as the state of a tiled area on one side of it could lead to more serious damage, or even its collapse if not properly fixed. I chose to make a donation by dropping it in a small box inside the museum before heading to a small museum about the locality on the third floor of the building housing the temple’s Sunday school.
Although the museum is only made up of two rooms, they are packed with items relating to the area’s rich history and culture. The museum includes items produced by local people, such as Khon masks, papier-mache pigs, along with some sandals made of dried areca sheaths. This museum opens Wednesday through Sunday from 9 am to 4.30 pm.
For further information, call Tel: +66 (0)2 465 5592, or visit http://www.watprayoon.org.
Transport connections:
Boat: The easiest way to reach Wat Prayoon is via the Chao Phraya Express Boat. Disembark at Memorial Bridge pier and walk across Memorial Bridge - Wat Prayoon is located on the other side. The walk should take no more than 10 minutes.
You could also get off at the Ratchinee pier, which is located near Pak Klong Talad flower market and then take a ferry (three baht) to Wat Kalaya. From there, you can walk down the Chao Phraya River towards Memorial Bridge and the Department of Law Enforcement, which is located right next to Wat Prayoon.
Amulet Museum
Amulet Museum
Inside Pagada
Local Museum
Local Museum
Ordination Hall
Phra Buddha Nak Noi
White Pagoda
Credit: TAN Network (www.tannetwork.tv)
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