GreenBkk Scoop | Destiny shaped by Tin

Destiny shaped by Tin

Credit: Bangkok Post (www.bangkokpost.com)

The old quarter of Takua Pa in Phangnga is a poignant reminder of a glorious chapter in its history

Overlooked by most travellers who pass it off as rather quiet, the old town area of Takua Pa district in Phangnga in fact has much to shout about for it still resonates with a glorious chapter from history dating back a century, now almost forgotten.

Both sides of the main Si Takua Pa Poad that bisects the old town are dotted with period buildings conspicuous by their Sino-Portuguese architecture, Chinese shrines and tea houses. Elderly people sit chatting in front of their homes while others ride bikes that show their age to the local market to buy food. Once in a while you spot motorised vehicles.

These days the entire district, comprising mostly of the elderly and retirees, seems to be moving in slow mode, in contrast to its glory days a century or so go when it was a trading hub for people in the tin business.

According to its history, tin ores were discovered in Takua Pa long before Ayutthaya, but the latter was first to gain prominence because ships from the West were already making port calls there to buy the ores.

Takua Pa took off in a big way only after the Dutch, British and Portuguese arrived prospecting for tin ores, and with them came Chinese labour to work the mines in Phangnga and neighbouring Phuket.

The tin mining business hit a peak during the reign of King Rama V, as tax records from the time show, growing four folds from 29,040 baht in 1872 to 120,000 baht in 1875.

❖ Old coins are made as dressing accessories as well as ancient beads found in Takua Pa.

When tin prices dropped the industry went into a gradual decline, followed by an exodus of Western investors who sold off or left their businesses in the hands of their Chinese employees, explained Chalermchat Janejaneprasert, our tour guide. These workers later married into local families and their descendants, called Peranakan or Nyonya, constitute a sizeable part of Takua Pa and Phuket's population today.

The death knell for the tin industry in south Thailand came in 1985 when all mines were shut down. But the mines, the very source of wealth for several families, have since become an environmental liability.

''Whole mountains were dug up to extract the ores,'' said the guide who was born in Takua Pa. Rain water collected in the pits forming huge pools that overflowed when it rained contaminating canals including the Takua Pa River, the main channel for transporting ores during the heyday of the tin industry.

Such run-offs are a common feature every monsoon and sometimes they flood the old town, but fortunately for residents the water recedes in quick time, said Nirut Joramas, who runs a shop selling postcards. Some of his neighbours, though, have abandoned their shophouses.

The locals are a friendly lot and one of them, a retiree from Bangkok kind enough to invite me to his house for a cup of tea, said that his children still worked in the capital, but he chose to return because Takua Pa was his home and be with his wife.

❖ Women dressed in traditional Nyonya Kebaya attire never fail to lend colour to the old quarter of Takua Pa, gold and jewel accessories from head to ankle being the norm. The dress and hair style are believed to be influenced by Peranakan culture native to Penang in Malaysia, says Jarin Neeranatwarodom of the Takua Pa Cultural Council. The term Peranakan refers to descendants of immigrant Chinese fathers and local mothers. They mix the cultures and dressing styles of Malays and Chinese. In the main picture (on top) the women, locally known as ‘Nyonya’, are wearing the Kebaya which is a combination of translucent embroidered blouse and batik sarong. The blouse does not have buttons, but use a set of three-piece Kerosang (in the small picture to pin the blouse together in the front).

Sadly, I couldn't accept his offer because I had set out to explore and photograph as many natural and cultural attractions in Phangnga as possible.

From Takua Pa I went for a cruise on Sangnae Canal which snakes through 30 rai of banyan forest where some of the trees are more than a hundred years old. To lend a little colour to the tour, it was dubbed ''Little Amazon'' cruise, which if taken early morning rewards those aboard with sights of some rare exotic birds and snakes.

Apart from the cruise, you can take a day-long tour of Phangnga Bay and stop at a 200-year-old Islamic community on the island of Koh Panyi where you can sample choice seafood at any of its several restaurants.

Thereafter, you can proceed to the island of Khao Ta Pu which served as location for a James Bond movie. It is a great opportunity photo shoots. You can also paddle canoes to Tham Lod cave.

''Phangnga is rich in both nature and cultural attractions,'' said Pravit Limsakun, the mayor of Takua Pa. ''The further you explore, the more you are going to find our hidden treasures.''

The easiest way to get to Takua Pa is to drive there from Phuket Airport. The drive is about an hour long.

Tourist accommodations mostly comprise guesthouses, but if you are looking for bungalows or three- to five-star hotels, there are some between Khuk Khak and Khao Lak beaches.

If you want to photograph 'Nyonya' women, call Eco Khao-Lak Adventure at 087-264-2669 and ask for Chalermchat Janejaneprasert, website: www.khaolakholiday.com.

For Hua Lun foundry, call Surit Tantiwiboonchai at 087-282-0010.

For details and map, visit www.tourismthailand.org.

❖ The two-storey mansion in the main picture constructed in 1917 was home to Khun Intrakheeree, the first governor of Takua Pa. At present, it lies abandoned. Owned by the Na Nakhon family, its Sino-Portuguese architecture is a landmark of the old town, as is the ‘songthaew’ parked in its front. Locally called ‘pho thong’, for seats it has two wooden benches and roof for cover. Sitting on a side road off the national highway, the old town is very quiet during day when elderly folks can be seen idling in front of their homes gazing at passers-by. There is an eatery, Coffee Chay, that has been around for almost 50 years. It is famous for its coffee, tea, dim sum and Chinese steamed buns.

❖ A vendor laying out a dim sum spread. Here, you only pay for what you eat.

❖ ‘Namprik kung seab’ or dried shrimp in chilly dip was delicious. It is a popular dish in south Thailand.

❖ Surit Tantiwiboonchai, 69, the proprietor of Hua Lun foundry, shows how to fire an old pressure stove. This stove featured in the movie ‘Mahalai Muang Rae’ based on the tin mining industry. Hua Lun is the only foundry in Phangnga still making moulds the traditional hand-made way. The mould is made of volcanic soil coated with graphite and diesel fuel. It takes his staff about two months to finish all the moulds you see in the smaller picture. The advantage of his hand-made moulds is that their steel is thicker when compared to factory issues. The foundry opened in 1947, but Surit feels that its days are numbered as it’s become increasingly difficult to find skilled workers. His once 80-strong workforce is now down to 18 old hands. ‘I don’t know which will go first, the business or me,’ he lamented. His factory is open everyday, but if you want to visit it make an appointment in advance. You can reach him at 087-282-0010.

❖ Branches of trees on both sides of Sangnae Canal reach out to form a natural cover during the boat cruise through a 30 ‘rai’ banyan forest dubbed ‘Little Amazon’ to add to the spirit of adventure. Some of the trees are 100 years old or more. The long-tailed boats have no roof for cover. The cruise, lasting about an hour, is priced at 400 baht per head for Thais and 550 baht for foreigners. The reward is a cacophony of birds chirping and snakes slithering on tree trunks. The boat tour ends at the point where the canal meets the Takua Pa River.

❖ Khao Tapu and Khao Phingkan are significant stops while touring Phangnga Bay. All long-tailed boats stop at Khao Phingkan from where tourists enjoy good view of Khao Tapu, dubbed James Bond island because the movie ‘The Man With The Golden Gun’ was shot there. Visitors like to pose in front of Khao Tapu and then climb a hill of Khao Phingkan to the other side of the island to relax. There is nothing much on offer here except the view.

❖ Panyi is a small island about seven kilometres off the pier in Muang district. It has been home to this Muslim community for more than 200 years. Their ancestors were migrants from Indonesia who arrived in search of a better life. Starting with just three families, the community has grown to 315 households with a combined population of 1,500 and today boasts a mosque, a school, a public health centre and a network of concrete footpaths connecting important points on the island. Electricity and tap water is also available, but the cost of electricity is so high that residents dare not install air-conditioning, refrigerators or other items of luxury. Apart from fishing, tourism is their other source of income. Tour agents always include seafood lunch on the island as part of their cruise itinerary around Phangnga Bay.

❖ Canoeing to Tham Lod cave is fun. It takes one to two hours to get to the cave, depending on the tide. Canoe operators are residents of Koh Panyi who know the tide like the back of their hands—when to go in and get out, or how to manoeuvre inside the cave. Sometimes you are required to lie on your back because the cave’s ceiling is very low. At other times it is too dark. Additionally, Phangnga Bay boasts 1,000 ‘rai’ of pristine mangrove forest.

Credit: Bangkok Post (www.bangkokpost.com)