Monday, October 17, 2011

GreenBkk.com Travel | Baan Baat: Hand-Crafted Bowls Prove Particularly Durable

Baan Baat: Hand-Crafted Bowls Prove Particularly Durable

Maneeya Dhammataree

Located near the Golden Mount in Bangkok’s Pom Prap Sattru Phai district, a group of artisans from the Baan Baat (‘monk bowl village’) community ensures that these essential items, used by monks to store alms, remain an important part of the nation’s cultural heritage.

The bowls used by monks for this purpose have traditionally been made from clay or iron. Generations of artisans from the community have been responsible for hand crafting the bowls over a period of more than 200 years.

A place of refuge
Legend suggests that the ancestors of members of the Baan Baat community fled Ayutthaya in 1767 when the city fell following raids by the Burmese. The new arrivals began producing the bowls once they had settled into their current location on Boriphat Road in 1783, during the reign of King Rama I (1782-1809). The area was identified as a hub for this purpose and its residents continued to produce the bowls for almost 200 years. Mass production of the bowls in factories in the kingdom first began around 1971.

“We still have one of the original furnaces in our home,” says Hiran Suasriserm, whose elders taught him how to craft the bowls by hand. “But you’ll rarely find them in other residences these days.”

Although Hiran is well versed in producing the bowls by hand, for several years he only produced them as a hobby, or to make a little extra income for his family.

But in 2001, with the support of the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA), Hiran got the chance to participate in the revival of this important craft, which allowed the community to again become a production hub for handmade bowls.

Built to last
The bowls produced in the Baan Baat community are created by using the original technique, which ensures that the finished products are more durable than those produced by machines.

Unlike bowls that are mass-produced using molds, a traditional bowl is made from eight pieces of iron. The edges of each length are roughened, producing a serrated edge that will make for a better bond when fixing the pieces together.

The parts are welded together using copper in a traditional technique known as lan, then the bowl’s inner and outer surfaces and joints are beaten into shape with a hammer.

The craftsman files the bowl before it is finally tempered. Traditionally, golden teak is used to fuel the flames, which produces a greenish hue on the finished product.

“While it seems we use a lot of physical force when producing a bowl, it actually requires the craftsman to be mentally focused, too, in order to produce the genuine article,” Hiran says, adding that if too much physical force is used, the bowl can tend to become misshapen.

Several shapes
There are five main traditional forms of bowl, featuring distinctive differences in shape. The best-known traditional form (see photo [above]) has a rather pointed base, while the ta-go style bowl has gentler curves.

The hua seu (‘tiger’s head’), highlighted in the photo below, has a fairly blunt appearance, while two other styles roughly resemble a lime, sliced in half, and a nutmeg.

Popular souvenirs
As well as producing the bowls for practical purposes, Hiran also produces a range of smaller versions, which have proved to be popular among international visitors, who often purchase them as souvenirs or gifts.

“Foreigners tend to prefer the versions that are not scorched when tempered as they better demonstrate the handiwork of the joints, which they believe is one of the handicraft’s main attributes,” says Hiran.

A bowl with a 7.6-centimeter (three inch) diameter costs 600 baht (US$18), while a bowl with a 22.8-cm (nine inch) diameter, which is the largest size available, costs 1,800 baht.

The revival of interest over recent years has proven to be a boon for the community since Hiran and five other local producers are now back in business. And Hiran is quick to point out that his doors are always open to any Thai national interested in producing these symbols of the nation’s Theravada Buddhist faith.

“All Thais can learn, it is no longer restricted to our descendants,” he explains, with an eye towards long-term survival for the community and its unique traditional wares.

To contact the center directly, contact Tel: +66 (0)86 104 9639.

Transport connections:
The Baan Baat community can be found in a small lane off Boriphat Road on the outer rim of Rattanakosin Island, near the Golden Mount.

Car/Taxi: Since the Golden Mount is not located near any major form of mass transit system, taxi is probably the best form of transport if you do not drive, or wish to avoid the drive. Hiran's workshop is located right on the corner of Merupun Junction, which is within walking distance from the Golden Mount.

Boat: Alternatively, you could take a Chao Phraya Express Boat to Memorial Bridge pier and take a taxi or tuk tuk ('motorized trishaw') from there.







Credit: TAN Network (www.tannetwork.tv)

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