Khum Chao Luang: A Subtle Combination of Siamese, Italian Styles
Boranbureerom
Khum Chao Luang was once the residence of the provincial ruler of Phrae and is one of the province's most magnificent properties.
Set within beautiful gardens, the property was built in 1892 during the reign of King Chulalongkorn the Great (1868-1910 [Rama V]), and is listed as being one of the country's most outstanding architectural buildings.
Construction of the residence was commissioned by Chao Piriyathepawong, the 18th and final provincial ruler of Phrae. Chao Piriyathepawong was appointed Lord Protectorate of Phrae in 1889 and served in the position until 1902.
East meets West
The two-story residence, built using bricks and mortar, features teak wood floors and a combination of Italian and Siamese architectural styles, which was a popular trend at the time. Delicately carved motifs on decorative architectural features only serve to add charm to the building.
With 72 doors and windows, the building allows for lots of natural light, as well as offering plenty of natural circulation. Khum Chao Luang has undergone several restoration and refurbishment efforts over the years, but today still more or less retains its original form.
On the first floor, you'll find antique sideboards and large cabinets showcasing rare pieces of China. There's also a small exhibition of old photographs, featuring images of logging and associated transportation along the river. This reminds visitors that the teak wood industry once thrived in Phrae province.
On the second floor, you'll get to see items of bedroom furniture and photographs of Chao Piriyathepawong's family members. Large sideboards lined along the way feature rare examples of fine silverware.
Darker depths
Another interesting location, featuring historical exhibits, is the basement area, which was once used as a prison.
The entrance to the basement area is adjacent to the front steps leading up to the building. Photos are on display along the corridors, featuring shots of the apparatus used to control the prisoners. There are several compartmentalized areas, lacking any form of light, which would once have been used as cells.
Unfortunately, Chao Piriyathepawong was not able to see out the rest of his days on this impressive estate.
In 1902, 10 years after the building work was completed, Chao Piriyathepawong was forced to flee and narrowly escaped to the Lao city of Luang Prabang. He fled for fear of being punished for his alleged involvement in an uprising led by Tai Yai people, who wished to release Phrae from Siamese rule.
There are conflicting reports regarding his involvement in this uprising. Some say he eagerly supported the Tai Yai, while others suggest he was made a scapegoat. This remains unclear to this day as Chao Piriyathepawong never returned to Siam.
Once troops from the Siamese army secured the area, members of Chao Piriyathepawong’s family were sent to live in Bangkok and lived under the supervision of King Rama V for over 10 years.
Chote Phraepan, a grandchild of Chao Piriyathepawong, went on to become one of the country's best known writers. Chote, who was better known by his penname – Yacob - wrote Phuchanasibtit ('The Conqueror of Ten Directions').
Khum Chao Luang became property of the Siamese government and was used as the residence of the governor of Phrae until the late 1980s. The house was later turned into a museum and opened to the general public in 2005.
Khum Chao Luang opens daily from 8.30 am to 4.30 pm. For further information, call Tel: +66 (0)54 511 411.
Transport connections:
Khum Chao Luang is located on Khum Derm Road in Phrae province's Muang district.
Car: From Bangkok, take Highway 32 heading north to Nakhon Sawan. Continue north on Highway 117 until Phitsanulok, where you will need to switch over to Highway 11. This stretch of highway will take you right into Phrae province.
Credit: TAN Network (www.tannetwork.tv)
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