A small but committed group of Lop Buri residents is trying to stop ancient temple sites being used for what it regards as inappropriate purposes
As the rhythmic chanting of 108 monks resonated through Wat Phra Sri Mahathat in the soft, late-afternoon light, hundreds of worshippers tied a gigantic saffron robe around the main stupa of this ancient temple that was abandoned prior to the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767.
The main stupa of Wat Phra Sri Mahathat, Lop Buri, on the day of the annual tham boon ceremony in December. PHOTOS COURTESY OF ANUNTASET SETTEETHORN
These events marked the closing stages of a merit-making ceremony called Tham Boon Muang Lop Buri which has been performed here every year since 1999.
It was initiated by the Society for Preservation of Antiquity and Ancient Monuments and the Environment of Lop Buri, a group which has been playing an active role in the preservation of culture, especially in academic circles, for 35 years. Its members are particularly opposed to the staging of entertainment such as light-and-sound shows in sites of religious significance like these historic ruins thought to date back 1,500 years.
"Important temples are spiritual landmarks regarded by our ancestors as the ultimate source of morality, reflecting human virtues," noted Phuthorn Bhumadhon, a historian who is currently head of the society. "Such temples should serve the original purposes of their founders."
He gave three reasons for reviving the annual merit-making rites to mark the longevity of Lop Buri town and why Wat Phra Sri Mahathat is the most suitable venue in which to stage it.
First, in keeping with Thai tradition, every house or city deserves to have an annual blessing ceremony held in its honour.
Hundreds of Buddhists carry a gigantic saffron robe walk clockwise around the main stupa of Wat Phra Sri Mahathat, Lop Buri.
Secondly, public celebrations should take place in sacred places and focus on "moral essence" in order to remind people to behave virtuously.
"Every ancient city had at least one stupa enshrining relics of the Lord Buddha and Lop Buri has one at Wat Phra Sri Mahathat," Phuthorn pointed out. "That's why this temple is the most suitable venue for celebrating the anniversary of Lop Buri's establishment.
His third and final reason: It was at this temple that a stone slab thought to be 1,500 years old was found which bears inscriptions detailing two major tenets of Buddhist teachings: patijja samuppabat (the causes and effects of everything) and ariyasajja sii (the Four Noble Truths). This artefact is now stored in the Lop Buri branch of the National Museum.
Listening to a sermon.
"Making merit where an object bearing important Buddhist teachings was found reflects the connection between humans and dharma which can bring happiness and wisdom," he said.
According to Phuthorn, Wat Phra Sri Mahathat was already an important religious site a millennium and a half ago. As evidence of this he cites the discovery there of Buddha statues and a dhammachakra (wheel of dharma) engraved with Pallava letters used to write the Pali language back in the Dvaravati period. Major restoration work is believed to have been carried out there some three centuries ago during the reign of King Narai, who ordered the building of several more chapels and stupas.
At the heart of the temple is a laterite prang, a richly carved, finger-like stupa in which relics of the Lord Buddha are said to be enshrined. A text called the Thon Buri Royal Chronicle confirms the importance of the temple. It says certain Buddhist monks suggested to King Taksin (reigned 1767-82) that he move his capital to Lop Buri because it had an auspicious name and ''boasts the Buddha's relics at the centre of Siam and shall not be destroyed by enemies''. The monarch responded by offering a compromise solution: ''I am unable to leave Bangkok,'' he is quoted as saying, ''but shall follow the priests' advice by staying at Lop Buri for seven days.''
The start of the procession at Narai Ratchaniwet Palace.
Since 1999, a ceremony to venerate the Buddha relics enshrined within the temple's main stupa takes place every December, the same month that the birthday of HM the King is marked throughout the country. By participating in this tham boon ceremony, local people emphasise the importance of the temple as the city's heart and express their gratitude to the Lord Buddha for delivering his teachings.
This auspicious occasion usually starts early in the day with a ritual blessing by 18 Buddhist monks who are then served a meal. In the afternoon, hundreds of townspeople carry an extra-long saffron robe in procession from Narai Ratchaniwet Palace to the temple, passing Prang Khaek and Prang Samyod, two other religious landmarks, along the way. At the temple they listen to a sermon from a senior monk, after which 108 monks gather to chant prayers in Pali. That evening, after tying the elongated robe around the main stupa, the faithful will walk around it three times in a clockwise direction to pay respect to the relics contained within.
Historian Phuthorn Bhumadhon.
''Wat Phra Sri Mahathat was one of the venues in Lop Buri previously used for light-and-sound shows,'' said Wibul Chanyaem, vice-president of the Society for Preservation of Antiquity and Ancient Monuments. ''However, since we launched our campaign 11 years ago, the province no longer organises this type of entertainment here.''
The impetus for reviving the merit-making rite came entirely from the local community, Wibul said, pointing out that despite the lack of a temple fair or other typical attractions the event still manages to draw more than a thousand people every year.
Its success has also inspired the people of Thab Jampa, another Lop Buri neighbourhood, to start a similar campaign.
''The TAT office here fully supports the idea because they believe that it's good for society,'' Phuthorn remarked. ''More and more people are attending the ceremony to listen to the sermons. And they're not all devout Buddhists either. This is what could be called tourism in pursuit of wisdom.''
He decried the growing trend in major towns and cites to use historic religious sites for entertainment or tourism.
The ancient stone inscription featuring the Buddha’s main teachings that was found in the temple compound.
''Now many of these places have been turned into markets. Some even boast luxurious public toilets. The precincts of a temple shouldn't be used for such purposes,'' he said. ''Even Wat Arun [Bangkok's Temple of Dawn] is sometimes used as a venue for commercial activities and food fairs.''
He feels it is acceptable for tourists to visit historic temple ruins as long as they are not doing so solely for entertainment. As for his compatriots, he wishes they would treat such sites with more respect and refrain from causing damage to them.
''Some of these deserted temple complexes have been turned into places where people dump rubbish or relieve themselves. At others the buildings have been demolished. The responsible authorities _ the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts Department, in particular _ should be doing more to make people see the value of preserving our culture.''
Important sites, such as temples with stupas containing relics of the Buddha, should not be used for entertainment-oriented tourism, he said, but as venues for religious ceremonies that highlight their enduring spiritual significance.
Like Phuthorn, Wibul is upset at the increasing exploitation of ancient holy sites as backdrops for light-and-sound shows or locations for film shoots.
Phra Khru Piyachai Paphaso, abbot of Wat Choeng Tha in Lop Buri, had this to say: ''It is improper for people to use temples for entertainment purposes. At such events as light-and-sound shows, people step on sacred objects and paint graffiti on walls. Some couples express their love for each other right next to chedis. The local authorities should raise public awareness about this issue because every single ancient brick is precious.''
Lt-Col Buppha Jintanasonthi, a retired military officer and Lop Buri native, added: ''I agree with the group [Society for Preservation of Antiquity and Ancient Monuments] because events like light-and-sound shows attract too many
dhpeople, which can hasten the deterioration of ancient sites that are already in poor condition.''
Phuthorn said his group will continue to campaign against the improper use of religious sites. Notable successes it has had to date include the removal of buildings that were blocking the entrance to a viewing tower erected for astronomers during King Narai's reign (1656-88), regaining possession of land around Wat Bandai Hin and Wat Puen which had been encroached upon, and halting rock-blasting on the slopes of Khao Samor Khon and at Khao Tham Erawan. He and his colleagues worked with the Fine Arts Department, provincial officials and like-minded villagers on all these projects, he said, and it took up to two decades, in some cases, to achieve the desired goal.
The group also takes care of an exhibition room at the Lop Buri branch of the National Museum which contains artefacts from King Narai's reign and runs training courses on history and archaeology for local schoolteachers.
Anuntaset Setteethorn, a native of Lop Buri, has been a volunteer at the society for seven years now. ''We are determined to work for the good of the province. We provide support and advice and spearhead peaceful protests to protect our heritage.''
The people of Lop Buri want ancient sites to be properly restored and maintained, said Lt-Col Buppha, who revealed that many residents were unhappy about the repainting of walls and gates at Narai Ratchaniwet Palace since they made the historic structure look almost new. ''More campaigns need to be organised to encourage people to love and protect their cultural heritage like their ancestors did.''
Credit: Bangkok Post (www.bangkokpost.com)
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